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This year, I finally decided to do something I’d spent more than a decade writing about as a beauty editor: laser hair removal. For nearly 12 years, I’ve waxed almost every part of my body, with regular appointments for my bikini, Brazilian, and underarm areas. But that didn’t mean I enjoyed the treatment. Each time, I’d brace myself as hot, melted wax was smeared across my skin.
The catalyst for my decision to get laser treatment was my first wax after giving birth. I’d gone through the most physically intense experience of my life, so I assumed going back to waxing would be a breeze. It wasn’t. The anticipation of ripping off hard wax didn’t magically disappear, and for my first few waxes post-birth, my skin felt more sensitive than usual. In other words: It still hurt like hell.
Hyperpigmentation was also a huge concern for me following all the hormonal changes I was experiencing. Lasers have long had a reputation for being a risky treatment for melanin-rich skin due to the heightened risk of burns or discoloration. That's because laser hair removal literally targets melanin. "It works through a process called selective photothermolysis,” says Naana Boakye, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Hackensack, New Jersey. That’s just a fancy way of saying that melanin in the hair follicle absorbs the laser energy. “That energy converts to heat and damages the follicle so it can no longer grow.”
For decades, lasers were designed for lighter skin tones, and there are still technicians who are inexperienced in treating melanin-rich skin. As a Black woman who has dealt with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne on my face and body, the idea of triggering more discoloration by way of laser treatments has always made me nervous. Despite that, I've understood laser hair removal to be a gold-standard treatment for anyone who wants to remove body hair more permanently. So I decided to take the leap, but not without advice from board-certified dermatologists as I go through the multi-week process. The first areas I’m zapping are my underarms and Brazilian area.
What are the risks of laser hair removal for melanin-rich skin?
Laser hair removal on all skin types poses risks—especially if you undergo the treatment without the supervision of a board-certified dermatologist. You are aiming beams of heat energy at your skin, after all. Dr. Boakye says common side effects include temporary redness and swelling around the hair follicles and mild discomfort during treatment. “Less common complications include blistering, crusting, erosions, and, very rarely, scarring,” Dr. Boakye says.
For people with melanin-rich skin, hyperpigmentation and burns are among the most common concerns and typically occur when an inexperienced provider uses a device incorrectly. “When the laser wavelength, settings, or technique are not appropriate for the patient’s skin tone, the energy can be absorbed by the skin instead of the follicle, increasing the risk of injury,” Dr. Boakye explains. “In melanin-rich skin, there is more pigment in the epidermis, which means the laser energy can be absorbed earlier than intended.”
Jeanine Downie, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Montclair, New Jersey, says melanin-rich skin has “melanocytes that are larger and generally have higher baseline activity levels.” She adds that these pigment-producing cells “release more inflammatory 'mediators' faster than in those [in lighter skin tones] in response to heat or other trauma.”
Signs of a poor reaction to laser hair removal would be “pretty immediate” during treatment. “All lasers elicit a skin response,” Dr. Downie says, pointing to mild inflammation. “Pigmentary changes, like dramatic darkening rather than transient redness, are immediate signs that something isn’t right.”
How I avoided hyperpigmentation
1. I chose the right provider.
“I always suggest seeing a board-certified dermatologist,” Dr. Downie says. Some practices hire licensed nurses to provide laser services under the supervision of board-certified dermatologists or physicians. I got my treatment at Milan Laser, where the person administering my treatment is a licensed nurse under the supervision of a board-certified doctor.
It’s totally fair to scope out providers that share a similar skin tone to yours if it gives you more peace of mind. My provider, Chevanese Gonzales, is also a Black woman. She eased my worries during my first appointment with a thorough consultation, and it helped to see that Gonzales had positive experiences with laser without any hyperpigmentation, even on highly sensitive areas like her face.
2. I had a thorough consultation appointment.
Our experts also say a consultation is nonnegotiable, as it’s an opportunity to vet your provider and feel confident going into your service. Dr. Downie says to go in with a “try before you buy” mindset, with specific asks in mind:
- Can I see before-and-after pictures to get an idea of the range of tones you are treating?
- What laser are you using? How do you determine the settings for darker skin tones like mine?
- Can I do a patch test? [Editor’s note: A patch test is two laser pulses on a small area of skin meant to check your reaction to the treatment]
Gonzales walked me through all of the above, including what to keep in mind regarding aftercare. I used my consultation to quell any concerns I had, which is why I was eager to move forward with my treatment. “If you are unsure about the doctor, dermatologist, med spa, or office where you are having the laser consultation, simply do not proceed. Period,” says Dr. Downie. “The risk for a patient with melanin-rich skin is just too great.”
3. I researched the laser being used on my skin.
My provider recommended the Candela Gentle Max Pro, which uses Nd:YAG technology to treat clients. Skin experts consider lasers that utilize Nd:YAG tech to be a safe option for deeper skin tones. “The Nd:YAG has a much lower melanin absorption rate, so it causes significantly less chance of skin damage,” Dr. Downie says. “The YAG has a longer wavelength that targets deeper into follicles without transferring excessive heat to the surrounding skin, which is how the skin can burn, pigment, or scar.”
Pico is another example of a laser that utilizes Nd:YAG tech, and Morayo Adisa, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago, considers it safe when used by an experienced professional. Dr. Boakye echoes this, adding that Pico uses rapid pressure pulses that help minimize damage to the surrounding skin.
4. I didn’t neglect pre-laser care.
It’s easy to neglect the prep step with any treatment, but there are some rituals you’d benefit from pausing pre-laser.
Avoid waxing
“Avoid plucking or waxing the area for at least four weeks prior to treatment,” Rosemarie Ingleton, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, says. She notes that shaving the area with a clean blade will yield the best results because it doesn’t remove the hair follicle, which is needed for the laser to target and, essentially, have something to zap.
If you’re thinking of lasering your pubic area, you might have groaned out loud. Shaving down there isn’t the most pleasant experience, but a good razor can make the process less tedious. I use the Meridian Slimmer Trimmer, an electric shaver that lets me get a quick, smooth shave without spending (what feels like) an eternity in my bathroom. Before each laser session, try to remove as much hair as possible from the area. Your provider should also do a quick, dry shave with a clean blade before getting started, in case you missed any spots.
Avoid exfoliating
In addition to shaving, Dr. Ingleton also says to avoid exfoliating or scrubbing the treatment area for “at least 48 hours before and avoid using products such as retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, and beta hydroxy acids to avoid irritating the skin.” My provider at Milan also instructed me to come to each appointment with no product on my skin: no oils, lotions, or deodorant if you’re treating your underarms.
Avoid sun exposure
Experts also recommend avoiding direct sun exposure for at least four weeks prior to your laser treatment to reduce the risk of burning. “Tanned skin increases melanin in the epidermis, which significantly raises the risk of burns and pigment changes,” Dr. Boakye explains. So if you’re planning to commit to laser, it’s important to keep sun exposure in mind (think: upcoming travel, beach days, etc.) and disclose those plans to your provider before getting started to make sure your sessions are adequately spaced out between your time in the sun.
5. I am diligent with post-laser skin care.
When it comes to preventing hyperpigmentation during laser hair removal, post-care is just as critical as preparation. Immediately after your treatment, Dr. Downie says to forgo hot showers, steam, or saunas.
After your (lukewarm) shower, she suggests applying a fragrance-free hypoallergenic moisturizer afterwards that can help calm and soothe the skin. I use Flamingo’s Pubic Restorative Post-Shave Serum, a lightweight cream with oat extract, ceramides, and squalane that helps the area feel hydrated and less sore after treatment.
Sunscreen is also a nonnegotiable to protect your skin (especially if hyperpigmentation is a top concern). “Regardless of your skin tone and type, laser hair removal increases sun sensitivity. You must wear a broad-spectrum SPF 30 every day—rain or shine—January through December,” Dr. Downie says. “This is something I always stress to my patients with melanin-rich skin, who often think this isn't necessarily the case.”
I will admit I am not the greatest at year-round, all-over sun protection. When I am huddled up in sweats in the thick of New York City winter, it’s a miracle if any lotion touches my body, let alone SPF. But preventing hyperpigmentation means using an abundance of caution, so no cutting corners. When my skin is exposed, I always reach for Supergoop Play Everyday Lotion, especially for sensitive areas like my bikini line.
6. I avoid retinol and gently exfoliate.
Dermatologists generally recommend skipping retinoids and aggressive exfoliation for about a week (sometimes up to two) after each session. Once I’m past that window, I gradually incorporate gentle physical and chemical exfoliation to help prevent ingrowns and help brighten.
In my routine, that looks like a weekly pass with Skinfix Resurface+ Glycolic and Lactic Acid Renewing Body Scrub or, on lazier days, a swipe of First Aid Beauty’s Ingrown Hair Pads. I’ll also rotate in Eadem Smooth Slate Ingrown Hair + Dark Spot Serum, a topical roll-on stick with glycerin, azelaic acid, and mandelic acid to support gentle cell turnover and help with dark spots.
The key, though, is restraint. Preventing hyperpigmentation during laser treatment is less about throwing everything at dark spots and more about being strategic with ingredients while keeping your skin barrier calm for the best outcome.
My results so far
I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how unscary laser hair removal has been. I know part of this comes down to being in the right hands, which, in my case, is working with an experienced Black woman who’s not only undergone the treatment herself, but also has experience treating a variety of melanated skin tones
Three sessions in, I’ve already noticed a significant reduction in hair growth and, more importantly, no new dark spots. If anything, my skin looks smoother and brighter than it ever has. Trust me, if I could walk around with my arms up to show off my pits all the time, I would!
More than anything, this experience has reinforced that laser hair removal can be a safe, effective option for Black women, but it’s not something to go into casually. It takes doing your research, asking the right questions, and choosing a provider who truly understands your skin. It's a little extra homework, but when you approach it armed with the right knowledge, you’re not just hoping for great results, you’re actually setting the stage for them.
Meet the experts
- Naana Boakye, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Hackensack, New Jersey, and founder of Bergen Dermatology, Dr. Naana Beauty, and Karité
- Jeanine Downie, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Montclair, New Jersey.
- Morayo Adisa, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago and medical director at Dermatology Physicians.
- Rosemarie Ingleton, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and founder of Ingleton Dermatology and Rose MD.
- Nkem Ugonabo, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
People Also Ask
Is laser hair removal safe for Black skin? The short answer is yes. Laser hair removal is safe for Black skin when performed by an experienced, qualified professional using the right device.
What lasers are safest for medium to deep skin tones? Dermatologists generally recommend the Nd:YAG laser, which targets deeper into the follicles with less heat, reducing the risk of burns or scarring. One important distinction: Nd:YAG refers to the technology used in some laser devices, not to a particular device. Brands including Candela, Lumenis, and Lutronic manufacture lasers that utilize this technology. Dermatologists also say that Pico and Diode lasers are generally safe for darker skin tones when used appropriately.
Common misconceptions. A major one is that it isn’t safe for dark skin at all, which isn’t true. “People with darker skin tones can absolutely benefit from laser hair removal,” says Nkem Ugonabo, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, as long as they see a provider experienced in treating melanin-rich skin with the right devices. Dr. Boakye adds that even in the best hands, side effects can happen, but having a provider who “recognizes them early and knows how to treat them appropriately” makes all the difference.
